Cornwall - A Day in Padstow

I went out again for another adventure around Cornwall with my friend Trigger, this time to the South Coast, past New Quay and over to Padstow. Yet another seaside town filled with shops on narrow streets and beautiful boats in the harbor. But of course, the ride there and back was half of the joy. I'll never tire of riding along the narrow roads that carve through the rolling green hills. This time I also got to enjoy the beauty of the sea as well as the land. Once we arrived in Padstow we went to a nice pub just off the harbor, The Old Custom House. Unfortunately, I didn't take any pictures of the front of the building, but this is the view just in front. Not too bad huh. 

It was an inviting atmosphere and we found a nice table in the back area. I was pleased to see a map of Cornwall, also known as the South West country on the wall to help me get my bearings as to where we were. On the menu was the usual pub grub type of favorites. I settled on the classic ham, eggs and chips and a pot of Earl Grey with milk. These may have been the best eggs I've ever eaten in my life. Just look at the glorious amber-orange colour, the hallmark of cage-free, corn-fed chickens. And the chips were proper chips. I find when I'm back in the States I really don't care for fries anymore after proper chips. It's like what your Mom would make in an American home. Potatoes that are freshly peeled and cut into larger strips, not frozen potatoes from a bag. The pub was also dog-friendly, of course. I should create a post on how dog-friendly Cornwall is. In short, if you don't like dogs, you really may wish to spend time elsewhere. Dogs are welcome in nearly every establishment in Cornwall and that definitely includes those that serve food. 

After enjoying brunch we walked around the harbor. There was a lovely sailboat I had a momentary daydream about taking out on the open sea and then took in some sightseeing around the town. Because the sea is such an integral part of life in Cornwall, a nautical theme is always present. I wish I'd taken another picture so as to get the perspective of how big this beautiful anchor is.

I saw one the beautiful old farmhouses that kind of stuck out like a relic from the past in the midst of more modern shops. It had a beautiful wrought iron fence around it, but what really caught my attention was the stone figure in an ornately carved little alcove that looked shockingly like an Ellegua head. I do wonder what this was meant to represent or honor. I'm pretty sure Ellegua isn't highlighted in Cornwall. Maybe, but I sincerely doubt it. 

There were so many beautiful flowers all about. St. Austell pubs are often known for having a lot of hanging baskets on the outside. This one had bright fuschia petunias that caught my attention. 

We were surprised to see a grapevine with clusters of new grapes forming. We also saw a beautiful claddagh doorknocker. Maybe that is another thing I should feature as a brief weekly post because there are so many unique and beautiful ones that I've seen.

It was such a nice day and I can't wait for another day out with Trigger. He is such great company and I really appreciate him showing me so much of beautiful Cornwall.

Exploring the Cornish Coast - Looe and Polperro

Today I was happy to go out again with my friend Trigger for another adventure exploring the Cornish coast. He picked my up at 10AM and we set off for two villages about a half an hour away. First stop was Looe. It's another village on the sea with a lot of shops. The weather was a bit grim but wasn't chilly so it was fine to walk around.

It amazes me to see how clean and clear the water is everywhere around the Cornish coast.

                                     

The architecture that is so old is stunning. I would be willing to bet that the archways above are from the 12th century. Next stop, Polperro.

Polperro is a village along the Cornish coast that is nestled in a valley surrounded by trees and rolling hills of pasture. As you walk down the street (it's the only one for about a quarter of a mile) there is a tiny river, The River Pol, that flows down to the sea. On the other side of it are lovely homes which have tiny bridges to access the street lined with lush ivy and beautiful begonias. 

 Even though there are all kinds of tourist shops there it manages not to spoil the warmth and beauty. As you walk along there are a number of inns, tea rooms, an antique shop, and restaurants with outside gardens. I couldn't pass up an opportunity to wander around an antique store. We met the nicest lady who owns it. I ended up getting an old pewter teapot. I'm going to have to research whether or not it is safe to drink from. 

After several hours of sightseeing we'd worked up an appetite. We decided to go to a pub called The Three Pilchards that I felt perfectly cozy in. The pub takes its name from a type of fish that was once plentiful and caught in the harbor a few hundred yards away. To get the vibe of the place I've got to give a tiny history lesson on the area. A history similar to The French Quarter in some respects.

The pub is small and has an underlying mysterious air about it. I was told it is the oldest pub in the village, built in the early 1600's. But the first known documentation of Polperro itself is from 1303, but it was a port in the 1200's! If you know New Orleans, think Jean LaFitte's, very similar in vibe, only brighter and it offers food and locals actually go there because there are only a fraction fewer tourists behaving badly. I now am learning that that is not where the similarity ends. You see Cornwall's history is also rich with smuggling pirates, particularly in the late 1700's when Britain was at war with France and America. The Three Pilchards pub was definitely one of the spots receiving and selling contraband such as gin, rum, tobacco, and tea. What made these items hot was getting them directly from the source and avoiding the fleecing of the taxman. I only wonder, and it does stand to reason that I was sitting in a pub where Jean and Peirre LaFitte once sat and negotiated over rum, women and smoke before returning to New Orleans!? Though I am totally intrigued about learning more of the history of pirates who were so acive along the Cornish coastline, I was honestly only interested in ordering some of the amazing food I was seeing delivered to other tables, particularly a  delightful looking sandwich that I promptly ordered. It was chicken salad on seeded brown bread (chicken and mayonnaise on granary as it is called here) with a side of fresh cole slaw and homemade crisps served on a wooden cutting board.

The bread was quite possibly the best bread I have ever eaten (not exaggerating. It was amazing), so fresh and delicious. Between these soft slices of heaven was the freshest chicken, arugula (rocket) and a mild farmhouse cheddar. The coleslaw was served in an adorable glass jar, again with incredibly fresh ingredients and a wee hint of beet juice that gave an interesting yet not off-putting rose color. The crisps were hand-shaved parsnip and beetroot and so tasty. The last time I remember enjoying a sandwich this much was in 1999 in San Fransisco. I'm telling you, this was one hell of a sandwich man! I was very disappointed when we later took a trip to the bakery and they informed me they were all sold out of it. 

An interesting acrchectural design that is a hallmark of the area is called the "Looe ripple". It is the wave-like pattern on the exterior of buildings in the area. 

After our wonderful lunch we wondered around the ridiculously narrow streets that are actually the norm in villages. We saw a house that now serves as an inn and seems to defy any logical rules of architectural integrity. Then Trigger took me to a special house called the "shell house", for obvious reasons. If Yemaya or LaSirene had a home on land, this'd be it.

It was such a nice day. I was honestly tempted to stay in but I am so glad I followed my urge to get out and enjoy the day in spite of gloomy weather. It didn't rain on us one time, and yet again, I got to see an area that few Americans know exists let alone get to enjoy. And to spend time with a friend who is hilarious and very good company. It was a very good day.